Fashion // The best of New York Fashion Week SS15

September is more than just the start of autumn, it's also signifies the start of Fashion month - And it's that time of year when the hottest designers, editors, models and celebrities all descend onto the streets of New York to watch the catwalk shows and presentations that will give us that first glimpse of the trends to look out for come next spring. It's all very exciting and I can't wait to see what my favourite designers have in store over the next few weeks. I have previously discussed couture week collections on my blog, so I thought it would be fun to also write a round up of my favourite catwalk collections and looks that have graced New York Fashion Week. So let's begin..

Nicholas K

Brother & sister duo Nicholas and Christopher Kunz took inspiration from female explorers for their powerful spring collection. They took traditional aspects and reinvented them into a uniform that's perfect for the modern urban warrior. The collection is a hybrid of the utility and safari style trends, with block layers of neutrals such as khaki, tan, charcoal and black. Heavy armours of leather jackets and utility coats were combined with fluid dresses and harem style trousers in soft, shimmery materials. This collection is high fashion, full of attitude and yet so wearable, I can imagine many of these pieces reappearing on the high street - I love the idea of combining casual & dressier pieces together for a relaxed layered look, the colour palette also keeps this collection understated; letting all of the complex construction work and draping do the talking. Highlights of the collection include loose tailoring, reworked safari & cami dresses and harem trousers - finished off with fringing, horsehair accessories and draped head scarves/ wraps. Look to the Nicolas K collection as your inspiration for your future wardrobe staples and key statement pieces that you will wear again and again.

Jason Wu

"Embracing the roots of American sportswear" was quoted as the source of Jason Wu's inspiration for his SS15 collection. Clean, crisp and simplistic was the running trend throughout the collection with a hint of subtle prints in a palette of khaki, navy and white with a flash of orange. Classic mix and match separates, wrapped shirt dresses and boxy blouses were the key looks of the collection; it's a laid back approach to work wear with relaxed shapes and oversized tailoring. Dropped waist sequin pieces, forties style wrap dresses and billowing silk gowns added a touch of evening glamour and simplistic opulence to the collection. This is another very wearable and versatile collection with pieces that are ideal to take from the office to the cocktail bar. The overall tone is minimal yet chic with a subtle sexiness due to the plunging necklines, thigh high splits and flouncy sheer materials. Accessories were kept to a minimum with leather clutch bags and strappy cut out heels to keep with the simplistic tone of the collection. Lightweight duster jackets or oversized boxy jackets add a feminine/masculine touch to the tailoring looks for the perfect mix of androgyny. Jason Wu's collection will be the template for how to do office chic right come spring.

Prabal Gurung

Transitioning from his fall to spring collection seamlessly, Prabal Gurung continued to take inspiration from his native Nepal - in particular from the Himalayan mountains. Graphic prints of the mountains adorned dresses in sunset hues of pastel pink, lilac and orange through to dusky grey and midnight blue to create a romantic and ethereal palette. Metallic threads are also worked into the mountain scenes to mimic the glinting sunlight reflecting off the snow. Texture is also key with swirling ostrich feathers, silver embroidery fashioned into cloud like prints and frayed metallic fabrics for a stunning and iridescent collection. The Asian influence can be seen in the shape of the garments with kimono style sleeves, wrap over blouses and waist sashes. The world of couture is mixed effortlessly with Prabal's love of sportswear thanks to the use of racer back silhouettes and neon striped trousers to inject a high fashion edge into the otherwise dreamlike collection. The further into the show, the more outlandish and extravagant the embellishment gets, with feathered skirts and ruffled tiers of printed fabric. All of the over the top detailing then makes way to beautiful red carpet worthy gowns with floaty sheer skirts; a contrast flash of sequinned waistbands and a crop top overlay also makes for a sports luxe finish. This is a stunning collection of evening styles that will most definitely be spotted on all of the best red carpets for a dramatic entrance.

Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci described his spring collection in his show notes as precise and sharp - and this was definitely prevalent with look after look featuring angular tailoring pieces and overcoats. The collection was shown in a crisp monochrome palette with certain looks containing flecks of metallic bronze that shimmered down the catwalk. Every now and then there was a welcome pop of sunshine yellow or baby pink to remind us of the spring time months and to add a bit of a zing to the otherwise muted palette. The show kicked off with all white/ all black angular suits for a strong and powerful impact. Trouser shapes are kept slim and tailored, jackets are worn over waistcoats and leave a plunging neckline. As the show progressed, soft and silky fabrics were incorporated alongside graphic prints and heavy metallic beading. Midi length button up dresses and blossom print jackets also help to soften up the razor sharp start of the collection. Collarless coats and dresses are edged with contrast piping for a minimalist trend feature, some sheer pieces also featured intricate networks of ribbon overlays. Towards the end, there was an array of fun and diverse cocktail dresses showcasing a spectrum of different design elements and techniques. The collection came full circle and ended with clean and classic gowns that were full of effortless glamour. Although understated and simple, the Ralph Rucci collection contains expert craftmanship and tailoring within every look featured that is hard to spot elsewhere on the catwalk; this is what truly takes the spotlight within this collection.

Christian Siriano

Christian Siriano produced a simply breathtaking collection of dresses and gowns that explored the "effects of transparency" after being inspired by Sergio Redegalli's towering glass sculptures. To mimic the effects of glass, the colour palette was kept to icy whites, silvery blues and shimmery navy. Although the collection is primarily couture style gowns, Christian Siriano has attempted to showcase more wearable items such as matching separates, waterfall jackets and midi dresses. Texture is key - with jacquard, beading, laser cut overlays, sheer panels and ostrich feathers having been used to create the different looks to play up to the glass like theme. Intricate ice like beading, iridescent threads and high shine materials are also added to help to reflect the light throughout the entire collection. Away from the embellishment, the idea of multiple layers is experimented with by using geometric laser cut material as well as sheer striped silk to create unusual tailoring separates and dresses as a running theme throughout the collection. Dramatic ruffles, embellishment and waterfalls of flowing layers will leave any wearer feeling like an ice queen ready for a dramatic appearance. I'm personally in love with the theme and think it has been pulled off fantastically to create Christian Siriano's very own winter kingdom ready to thaw out in the first sunlight of spring.

Alexander Wang

In stark contrast, Alexander Wang continued with the urban sports luxe trend that he does so well; this time focusing on sneakers as the inspiration for his athletic collection. Monochrome was the underlying theme with flashes of bright orange, blue and green. This collection was all about streamlined silhouettes, technical fabrics and sneaker component styling. Barcode print belts cinched in the waists of angular tailored jackets whilst sneaker lace up patterns were knitted into skin tight scuba dresses. The collection also featured a range of laser cut tennis dresses, beaded boxy blouses and graphic print bomber jackets - the perfect fusion of sport luxe. Chunky foam tops were also paired with silky tailored trousers with racing stripes as well as sheer pleated mini skirts. Perforated inserts and leather created the stylising of a typical sneaker onto the crop tops and dresses of the collection. Considering sneakers heavily inspired Alexander Wang for this collection, not a single model wore sneakers on their feet - In fact you'd find them carrying oversized sneaker shaped clutches instead. The collection is slick, sporty and yet sexy, Alexander Wang truly knows how to hit the nail on the head when it comes to sports luxe.

Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka never fails to impress me with the glamorous statement gowns they create season after season, this duo kills it every time with lust-worthy range of red carpet looks and cocktail dresses; this time, in a pretty palette of pale gold,  ivory, rose and lilac that are just the ideal pastels for spring. Metallics have also worked their way into this collection as shimmery tweed fabrics are used for dress inserts as well as tailoring separates. frosty tulle materials and lace also have an iridescent touch and are accented with beautiful embellishment. Badgley Mischka has also created some gorgeous toned down separates including shorts, tulle maxi skirts and cropped blouses - ideal for events that don't require a couture gown and a red carpet. But getting back to the ball gowns, they incorporate the most beautiful screen printed floral designs onto the bodices and sheer floaty skirts; these gowns are the modern day fairytale dresses that will make anyone feel and look like a princess. I also love the tulle inserts and embroided detailing that has been worked into the prints - the sheer amount of work that has gone into each and every gown is incredible! Each look - even the more casual ones, are every inch the glamorous statement and I can imagine the collection being very popular with the A-lister crowd come awards season.

Milly

The offering this season from Milly was far more edgier than what we usually see from designer Michelle Smith. Usually contemporary with a feminine edge, this season seemed to be more athletic inspired with a lot more sports luxe silhouettes and slick styling. Monochrome seems to be the colour scheme of choice for the urban style collections at NYFW and the Milly show was no exception; there was also pops of royal blue and marbled pink/lilac prints sandwiched between the monochrome start and finish. The sports luxe trend was rife, with contrast sports bras under perforated crop shirts, racing stripe tailored joggers and wide leg culottes - it's all very slick and stylised. Duster coats, netted bomber jackets and sleeveless tailored gilets were also the outerwear silhouettes of choice throughout. Michelle Smith has also experimented with layering sheer and laser cut separates in technical mesh materials to modernise classic shapes with an urban twist - seeing flowing mesh skirts and burnout patterned separates is particularly exciting and unusual to see. The collection was girly, yet sporty, urban yet high fashion, what should be quite formal pieces are toned down with athletic inspired materials making them just so much more wearable. Footwear was kept simple with monochrome strappy sandals or lace up pumps - an easy way to dress up or dress down the collection and tailor it to your style.

Vera Wang

Vera Wang's spring collection was a tale of two halves; starting off with powerful all-black tailoring and slowing morphing into beautiful bohemian maxi dresses. It's the perfect contradiction and Vera's theme of "Boyish Boudoir, Baby Bohemian" has been fully achieved within this collection. The colour scheme is moody and ominous, not quite what you would expect for spring, think black on black with the occasional bloom of muted floral prints and subtle glow of gloomy metallics. Strong tailored suits and separates started the show, although these looks were given a feminine stamp by adding ruffles and pleats to oversized jackets, cinching in the waists with patent belts and keeping trousers and shorts loose and wide legged. Out of the darkness, jewel encrusted mini dresses appeared from nowhere together with metallic foil pleated skirts and net overlays. Necklines had a sport inspired racer front as well as Bardot style sleeves. The hemlines then got longer with beautiful flowing floral maxi skirts with embellished tulle overlays - although still in keeping with the dark colour tones, you can't help but see the romantic and feminine juxtaposition in the design. The show ended with bohemian style trapeze dresses with dropped waists and flowing silhouettes, Vera Wang's offering of Gothic romanticism is a beautiful sight to behold.

If you've made it this far, well done! 10 points to you, I know this post was a bit of a long one, but I just have too much to say when it comes to fashion collections but I hope you liked my show report about my favourite shows from New York.

What were you're favourite shows from New York Fashion Week, do any of the above designers make your best show list?

Amie xx

Bloglovin - Twitter - Pinterest - Instagram 

SHARE:

Labels: Alexander Wang , Badgley Mischka , Christian Siriano , fashion , fashion week , Jason Wu , Milly , new york , new york fashion week , Nicholas K , Prabal Gurung , Ralph Rucci , Vera Wang